{"id":1369,"date":"2026-09-29T19:04:02","date_gmt":"2026-09-29T19:04:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/?page_id=1369"},"modified":"2026-09-29T19:05:09","modified_gmt":"2026-09-29T19:05:09","slug":"pb","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/?page_id=1369","title":{"rendered":""},"content":{"rendered":"\n<style>\n\/* =========================================================\n   ESTATE & VINTAGE \u2014 PAR\u00c9S BALT\u00c0 EDITORIAL STORY\n   Text-only masthead \/ no top image\n   ========================================================= *\/\n\n.ev-story {\n    --paper: #f5f1e8;\n    --paper-deep: #ebe4d7;\n    --ink: #20201d;\n    --muted: #777268;\n    --rule: #cfc7b8;\n    --accent: #7d3329;\n\n    background: var(--paper);\n    color: var(--ink);\n    max-width: 1180px;\n    margin: 0 auto;\n    padding: 0;\n    font-family: Georgia, \"Times New Roman\", serif;\n    box-sizing: border-box;\n}\n\n.ev-story *,\n.ev-story 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       margin-top: 65px;\n        padding: 55px 10px;\n    }\n}\n<\/style>\n\n\n<article class=\"ev-story\">\n\n    <!-- =====================================================\n         TEXT-ONLY MASTHEAD\n         THE TOP IMAGE HAS BEEN REMOVED\n         ===================================================== -->\n\n    <header class=\"ev-masthead\">\n\n        <p class=\"ev-kicker\">The Shiner Tastings<\/p>\n\n        <h1 class=\"ev-title\">Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 Wines<\/h1>\n\n        <p class=\"ev-subtitle\">\n            Of Xarel\u00b7lo, Cow Horns, Yellow Flowers and the Curious Wisdom of Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 Wines.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p class=\"ev-location\">\n            Pened\u00e8s, Catalonia, Spain\n        <\/p>\n\n    <\/header>\n\n\n    <!-- =====================================================\n         STORY\n         ===================================================== -->\n\n    <div class=\"ev-article\">\n\n        <p>\n            It is a curious thing about wine that a man may arrive at a tasting intending to concern himself with the contents of a glass and depart having been introduced to matters which no sensible person would ordinarily associate with the cultivation of grapes: cow horns buried beneath the earth, quartz crystals reduced to fragments, wild flowers of a singular colour, and a creature\u2019s head immersed in a river at the summit of a mountain.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            Such was my experience when, at a Gerard Seel wine tasting, I met&nbsp;Marta Delfa of Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0, who had come to introduce the wines of the celebrated Catalan estate.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 is a family winery in the Pened\u00e8s, in Catalonia, whose history reaches back to 1790. Its vineyards are cultivated organically and biodynamically, and the estate has become particularly associated with the exploration of its vineyards, indigenous varieties and the peculiar relationship between the vine, the soil and the wider living world in which the plant finds itself.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            It is a winery whose wines are not merely made, but apparently contemplated, questioned and, on occasion, subjected to practices which might cause the uninitiated to wonder whether they had wandered into a vineyard or an agricultural chapter of some unfinished alchemical manuscript.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            Marfa spoke with the assurance of someone who knew both the wines and the people who made them, and as she introduced her array of bottles, the conversation naturally found its way to&nbsp;Xarel\u00b7lo, the ancient white grape of the Pened\u00e8s and one of the principal varieties associated with Cava.Xarel\u00b7lo is not a grape which announces itself with the theatrical confidence of certain better-known varieties.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            It has, rather, the temperament of an old inhabitant who has been sitting quietly in the same village for several centuries and sees no reason to explain himself to passing tourists.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            Yet in the making of Cava it is of considerable importance, and it was this grape, rather than any exotic novelty, that became one of the threads by which our conversation was drawn deeper into the world of Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0.\n        <\/p>\n\n\n        <blockquote class=\"ev-pullquote\">\n            twelve hundred cow horns in one hole seemed to me to represent a substantial departure from ordinary viticultural conversation.\n        <\/blockquote>\n\n\n        <!-- BIODYNAMICS -->\n\n        <h2 class=\"ev-section-heading\">Biodynamics.<\/h2>\n\n        <p>\n            Soon enough, as happens when one asks a winemaker a question and receives an answer sufficiently interesting to demand another question, the discussion turned towards&nbsp;biodynamics.I asked Marta what she considered the most peculiar biodynamic practice to which the winemakers adhered.She answered with such matter-of-factness that I was almost disappointed that she had not first paused to prepare me.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            The practice involved&nbsp;immersing and keeping a lamb\u2019s head in a river at the top of a mountain.There are moments in conversation when one must decide whether the appropriate response is to ask for clarification or simply to accept that the world contains things one had not previously considered.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            I chose clarification.And this, as it turned out, was only the beginning.Second among the curiosities was the burying of&nbsp;1,200 cow horns in a single hole.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            Now, I have attended enough wine tastings to know that the discussion may occasionally stray into subjects which are not strictly connected to fermentation. I have heard arguments about soil, lunar cycles, weather, yeast and the moral character of oak.But twelve hundred cow horns in one hole seemed to me to represent a substantial departure from ordinary viticultural conversation..\n        <\/p>\n\n\n        <!-- COW HORNS IMAGE -->\n\n        <figure class=\"ev-image\">\n            <img decoding=\"async\"\n                src=\"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/COW-HORNS-1024x1024.jpg\"\n                alt=\"Cow horns buried in the soil at Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0\"\n                loading=\"lazy\"\n            >\n\n            <figcaption class=\"ev-caption\">\n                <span>Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0<\/span>\n                <span>Twelve hundred cow horns<\/span>\n            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/figure>\n\n\n        <p>\n            Before I had properly recovered from this subterranean assembly of bovine architecture came the matter of&nbsp;quartz crystals.These, Marta explained, are smashed, apparently because within biodynamic practice they are believed to enhance photosynthesis.Thus the vineyard revealed itself to be a place in which the vine was not left merely to the attentions of sun, rain and soil, but surrounded by a curious company of horns, crystals, rivers and mountains.One might reasonably suppose that the vineyard had become a laboratory.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            Or a temple. Or, depending upon one\u2019s temperament, both.Naturally, having been presented with these extraordinary practices, I asked the question which seemed inevitable:\n        <\/p>\n\n\n        <h2 class=\"ev-section-heading\">\n            What does Biodynamics get wrong?\n        <\/h2>\n\n        <p>\n            Marta\u2019s answer was not an attack upon biodynamics so much as an observation about the way in which it is perceived. She explained that, particularly in Spain, there exists a misconception that biodynamic winemakers are witches, or that their practices belong somehow to the occult. It is easy, after all, to ridicule what one does not understand.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            Tell a man that you have buried twelve hundred cow horns in the earth and he may reasonably wonder whether he has entered a vineyard or stumbled upon the rehearsal of some rural ceremony whose purpose was never disclosed to the public. But Marta also referred to another difficulty: the existence of aspects of biodynamics which remain&nbsp;unexplained or insufficiently understood. And then came a detail which, for reasons I cannot adequately explain, stayed with me more than the cow horns.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            The wild flowers, she said, were&nbsp;all yellow. All of them. It is one thing to tell a man that biodynamics seeks harmony between the vineyard and the natural world. It is quite another to tell him that the natural world has apparently reached an agreement concerning colour. I found myself wondering whether the flowers had been consulted.\n        <\/p>\n\n\n        <!-- YELLOW FLOWERS IMAGE -->\n\n        <figure class=\"ev-image\">\n            <img decoding=\"async\"\n                src=\"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/yellow.jpg\"\n                alt=\"Yellow flowers in the landscape surrounding the vineyard\"\n                loading=\"lazy\"\n            >\n\n            <figcaption class=\"ev-caption\">\n                <span>Landscape<\/span>\n                <span>The yellow flowers<\/span>\n            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/figure>\n\n\n        <!-- CAVA -->\n\n        <h2 class=\"ev-section-heading\">Return to Cava.<\/h2>\n\n        <p>\n            I asked Marta what, in her view, was the principal problem with Cava.Her answer was straightforward: it is too loosely regulated. Her concern was that Cava can be made in different parts of Spain and from whichever grape varieties a producer chooses within the permitted framework, and that the category, in her view, would benefit from greater regulation and a stronger definition of what Cava should represent.\n        <\/p>\n\n        <p>\n            This seemed to me a reasonable complaint, for every great wine category must eventually confront the question of identity. A name must mean something. Otherwise the name becomes little more than a coat which may be worn by anyone who happens to find it hanging upon a peg.\n        <\/p>\n\n\n        <!-- CAVA BOTTLE -->\n\n        <figure class=\"ev-image\">\n            <img decoding=\"async\"\n                src=\"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/cava-brut-pares-balta-scaled-1-683x1024.jpg\"\n                alt=\"Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 Cava Brut\"\n                loading=\"lazy\"\n            >\n\n            <figcaption class=\"ev-caption\">\n                <span>Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0<\/span>\n                <span>Cava Brut<\/span>\n            <\/figcaption>\n        <\/figure>\n\n\n        <!-- =================================================\n             MARTA DELFA FEATURE\n             ================================================= -->\n\n        <section class=\"ev-feature\">\n\n            <p class=\"ev-feature-label\">Marta Delfa<\/p>\n\n            <h2 class=\"ev-feature-title\">\n                Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 Wines.\n            <\/h2>\n\n            <figure class=\"ev-feature-image\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\"\n                    src=\"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/pb-767x1024.jpeg\"\n                    alt=\"Marta Delfa presenting Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 wines\"\n                    loading=\"lazy\"\n                >\n            <\/figure>\n\n            <h3 class=\"ev-feature-title\">\n                The wine I wasn\u2019t expecting.\n            <\/h3>\n\n            <p class=\"ev-feature-subtitle\">\n                The white Carignan that really had no business being there.\n            <\/p>\n\n\n            <p>\n                Of all the wines Marta presented that afternoon, it was not the most famous, fashionable or expensive that stayed with me, but a white Carignan. The choice seemed almost mischievous: Carignan is a grape more commonly associated with deep-coloured, robust red wines, Mediterranean heat, difficult soils and old vines. Yet here it was, pale in the glass, quietly defying expectation. It reminded me that wine has a peculiar habit of rewarding expectation with disappointment and ignorance with discovery.\n            <\/p>\n\n            <p>\n                We arrive armed with familiar names and established preferences, only for some obscure bottle to appear and rearrange our assumptions. The pleasure was not simply its rarity\u2014rarity alone proves very little\u2014but the character that accompanied it. It felt like an archaeological discovery disguised as a glass of wine: a grape stepping outside the role wine history had assigned to it and revealing how much possibility remains hidden within varieties we think we already know.\n            <\/p>\n\n            <p>\n                Perhaps that is one of wine\u2019s greatest pleasures: not being impressed, but being surprised. At tastings, the accumulation of appellations, vintages, soils, elevations and winemaking techniques can turn wine into an examination, where remembering the answers becomes more important than enjoying the questions. The white Carignan required none of that. It simply appeared, and for a moment everything else became secondary.\n            <\/p>\n\n            <p>\n                The experience reminded me why obscure wines are worth seeking out: beyond the famous vineyards and well-trodden paths are forgotten varieties, unusual parcels, eccentric vineyards and stubborn ideas waiting to be discovered. Their stories may not yet be polished into reputations or translated into prices, but occasionally they offer something more valuable\u2014discovery.\n            <\/p>\n\n            <p>\n                On that afternoon, discovery came in a colour I had not expected from a grape I thought I knew: white Carignan, a small rebellion in a glass.\n            <\/p>\n\n        <\/section>\n\n\n        <!-- =================================================\n             CLOSING\n             ================================================= -->\n\n        <section class=\"ev-ending\">\n\n            <p class=\"ev-ending-quote\">\n                Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 may cultivate vines in the soil of the Pened\u00e8s, but its wines, like all wines worth remembering, seem to grow another crop altogether: stories.\n            <\/p>\n\n            <p class=\"ev-ending-quote\">\n                And stories, unlike grapes, have no harvest season..\n            <\/p>\n\n            <p class=\"ev-ending-author\">\n                AITKEN PEARSON\n            <\/p>\n\n            <p class=\"ev-ending-publication\">\n                STORYVILLE\n            <\/p>\n\n        <\/section>\n\n    <\/div>\n\n<\/article>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Shiner Tastings Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 Wines Of Xarel\u00b7lo, Cow Horns, Yellow Flowers and the Curious Wisdom of Par\u00e9s Balt\u00e0 Wines. Pened\u00e8s, Catalonia, Spain It is a curious thing about wine that a man may arrive at a tasting intending to concern himself with the contents of a glass and depart having been introduced to matters [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_robots_imageindex":"","_seopress_robots_snippet":"","_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_robots_breadcrumbs":"","_seopress_robots_freeze_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_custom_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_fb_img":"","_seopress_social_fb_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_height":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_height":0,"_seopress_redirections_value":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled_regex":"","_seopress_redirections_logged_status":"","_seopress_redirections_param":"","_seopress_redirections_type":0,"_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-1369","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1369","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1369"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1369\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1371,"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1369\/revisions\/1371"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/estateandvintage.wine\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1369"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}